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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.